The Real World: Project Runway’s Ben Chmura Shares Life After Fashion Reality TV

Image courtesy of Eli SchmidtMy goal is to be a fashion designer, not a celeb-reality star. – Ben Chmura

Over the years, viewers have confirmed that fashion makes for good TV.  Numerous show Lifetime’s Project Runway, Bravo’s The Fashion Show, and  The Rachel Zoe Project are just a few of the shows that have brought the fashion industry to the living room of millions, changing mass perception about how the industry works. Fashion glossies and  Fashion & Celebrity PR  have also gotten in on the action with The Spin Crowd, PoweR Girls and of course, Kell on Earth.

As our obsession with reality-style television grows, it’s worth asking the question: what is the real impact on the fashion industry. How accurate are the edited episodes and what kind of repercussions exist for those in the seasonal spotlight?

Ben Chmura, one of my clients and  fashion designer and finalist on Season 7 of Project Runway was kind enough to share his thoughts on the experience and the fashion reality show trend.

How would you describe your Project Runway experience?

My Project Runway experience was uncomparable to anything I’ve done in my life. It is truly an opportunity that changed my life because not only did I accomplish one of my goals (by getting on the show and showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week), but I made some incredible friendships in the process. To me the friendships outshine the prize of the show because these are relationships that will last for a long time to come.

What has been your fondest or best memory?

My fondest memory of Project Runway would have to be my first time that I spoke with the judges about my Marie Claire cover dress. Having the opportunity to explain your work to an editor-in-chief, such as Joanna Coles, is such a feat in itself. Also, because I almost won that challenge and I finally began to feel like myself.

What has been your worst experience or memory as a part of the Project Runway cast?

I think my worst experience with being a part of the cast is hearing the criticism from people who watch the show who don’t necessarily understand what it takes to make a garment. There’s a great deal of judgment with everything that you do and no matter how much preparation you have in your life, you still are never fully prepared. I think the other difficult experience was the misconception that because I was on television I was instantly successful and wealthy. The show is a voluntary process and we didn’t make anything off the show unless we worked for it ourselves.

Ben Chmura, MBFW 2010

How has being on the show impacted your career as a fashion designer?

Being on the show has slowly impacted my career as a fashion designer. I think that for a couple of reasons: 1) I wasn’t a flamboyant character on the show. I acted like myself and didn’t “turn it on” for the cameras. Unfortunately, there is a great deal of response in the industry to “characters.” Not to say they aren’t talented, but it does help in getting them partnerships/financial assistance. 2) The main reason for the slow impact is because Project Runway is a stepping stone. We have to work just as hard, if not harder to make it in the industry now that people have larger expectations from us. I moved back to New York (from Tampa) last summer and a former employer offered me a job (she was a fan of the show) and I’m now overseeing our graphics department and spearheading new production with factories in Honduras for the company. Through this experience I’m making connections to start working on my own collection again through proper channels.

How did public relations or social media play into your experience as a designer before and after Project Runway?

Before Project Runway I didn’t use public relations like I should have. But, it’s also very difficult to add that into your budget when creating the clothing is a huge expense in itself. I relied on social media and DIY PR in the beginning and honestly, that will only take you as far as you want it to go. You really need to live on the computer and network in order for it be beneficial as a ‘free’ expense. Social media can be a tricky thing if you’re not PR savvy. After being on the show, being able to have public relations was a great experience for me. I worked with Lifetime’s PR department and fashion PR firm, White Book Agency. It definitely helps to work with someone in PR that you know has connections outside of your capabilities.

PR helped me to have appearances at venues and events that I normally wouldn’t have had experience with or even know how to begin the process. It also helped the community know more about me as a person and as a designer, forming a connection between myself and the community. Isn’t that what it’s really all about anyway? Sure, the product is important and can speak for itself, but if the customer doesn’t have some sort of connection with you, then you’re just another designer.

Do you feel more fashion designer or more celeb-reality star now?

I still feel more fashion designer. The show has definitely helped increase my fan-base and I still get recognized on the street, but after the show you have to learn how to transition back into being a normal person and focus on your goals. My goal is to be a fashion designer, not a celeb-reality star.

What advice do you have for anyone who wants to participate in a reality show?

Be prepared for the feedback. This industry is hard enough and you need a thick skin in order to survive, but being on an international show is a whole new territory. The other important piece of advice is to just be yourself. Stay true to your integrity because at the end of the day you have to answer to yourself.

What do you think of all of the fashion reality shows and how will it impact the industry?

I honestly think it’s starting to get a bit redundant. How many different concepts can you develop? I think Project Runway started an amazing phenomenon that I’m truly grateful for being a part of, but do we really need one on NBC now? I think it’s had a mild impact on the industry. Many people from the show are doing great things, but we’re all not household names or in every fashion magazine. We still have to prove ourselves to the industry just like anyone else. Getting on a fashion reality show doesn’t give you a ‘get-in-free’ card to the industry.

What are you up to now?

I’m currently the Art Director at a company that designs licensed apparel for Nautica, Izod, Dockers, Perry Ellis and Tommy Hilfiger. Through this opportunity I’ve formed relationships with factories and buyers that are beginning to turn into possibilities for my own work. I took a year hiatus to re-adjust to the move and get settled into my career.

After the break I’ve already begun sketching and sourcing for my new collection. It will debut in Jan 2012, which I’m very excited about! I’m working with a creative team that consists of musicians, videographers, and photographers to build a multi-media presentation to reach a broader audience. I also just returned from Bangalore, India, where I was invited by Raffles Millenium International College to be a guest judge at their senior fashion presentation; and recently I’ve been invited to show at Styleweek Providence next year.

What are your future goals?

My goal is to continue showing the fashion industry what I have to offer. After much reflection (post-show) I realized that I have a unique voice and I have a point of view that is relevant and worth being a part of the industry. Now I need to continue exploring my relationships that I’ve been building and turn them into business ventures. I’d like to sell a small collection each year that will be accessible through small boutiques and e-commerce. I’m a huge believer that less is more and small concise collections that can be merchandised through an entire year, rather than season-to-season, makes more sense to me as an independent designer. I’ve heard of too many horror stories of young designers who get their first huge order and then go bankrupt while trying to fulfill it. I want to be smarter than that.

[update: in the original published version of this post, due to editorial oversight, Ben Chmura's last name was spelled incorrectly. We regret the error - CN]

Fashion, Lifestyle, Home: How To Pitch Chic Galleria

Beth B. Anderson

In addition to being the creator and CEO of Chic Galleria Publications, LLC, Beth B. Anderson is a Lucky magazine Alpha Shopper, Vogue magazine Influencer, Condé Nast Digital The Runway member, Southern Living magazine source panelist and a member of the ELLE.com/ Style Coalition network. Named one of Lucky magazine’s Favorite Bloggers, Beth remains connected to the fashion industry from her home-base in Tulsa, Oklahoma. where she was recently named a Top 10 Social Media Phenom in the Tulsa/Oklahoma City Metropolitan area. She is also owner of  The Chic Editor, writing and editing services business.

Chic Galleria began in 2007 as a blog to accompany Beth’s online gift shop, and has since evolved into a must-read for over 800,000 monthly readers.

What was your inspiration for Chic Galleria?

I began a blog to accompany on online gift shop I launched back in 2007.  As I found the blog gaining readership, I asked several friends to add guest posts for fun.  A few friends turned into many more and Chic Galleria formed out of this group.  What started as posts about fashion and style is now a magazine featuring hundreds of writers in four distinct editorial departments: Style & Beauty, Arts & Entertainment, Body & Mind and Home & Family.

We started out as a community of writers all sharing our articles in one space. I call Chic Galleria an online fashion and lifestyle magazine because I equate this [approach] to a print magazine and thus use the terminology in our website description. We are a blog full of amazing people who have all come together to share their thoughts, advice and knowledge on one website.

Who is Chic Galleria’s target audience?

Because Chic Galleria Magazine features a unique combination of content that is presented both wholly and in segmented form, we appeal to a large segment of the online community. But there’s one thing most of our visitors have in common, they’re chic!

Our primary viewership is women readers aged 35-49, of various ethnic backgrounds, college educated and married with and without children. The average household income is $100,000. We like to feature products and price points that speak to our demographic and keep these demographics in mind when choosing what products to feature. Most of our writers are within this age bracket and we write about things that we personally use, wear and love.

What types of pitches are you interested in from fashion designers and publicists, and what makes a pitch or product stand out? What are your editors looking for?

I find that we feature brands, designers and products based on our own style choices. Our Style & Beauty contributors come from all over the world and each bring their own perspective into an article.

We love the personal relationships we have formed with many fashion designers and publicists over the years.  Having the ability to meet with them in person, speak over the phone and exchange emails on a personal level is what really makes their products or pitches stand out above others.  We are always looking for a personal connection and not just a “To Whom It May Concern” email.  For us, picking up the phone is the best way to get our attention!

Though all our event stories from New York Fashion Week are popular, we also find that interviews and tips from professional experts are really well received. One example is a makeup article I wrote recently. We love to mix it up by featuring stylists, designers and makeup professionals in articles along with product features, tips & trends and video. Our Style Video section features some great advice that people can apply immediately. We love to feature new up and coming designers which is why we do a lot of work with Nolcha. We don’t do your standard product review. If we are asked, we tell publicists that we prefer to give the product away to our readers through our Give-away section instead.

Do you prefer a lookbook or samples to be sent?

I personally enjoy receiving both.  The publicists, brands and designers I currently work with know my personal style when it comes to suggesting samples.  Having a pre-season lookbook is always extremely helpful.

What is the best way to get in touch?

The best way for any publicist to contact me and my editors is via email or phone. My Executive Assistant Letitia handles everything concerning emails, pitches, etc. I always encourage publicists to email Letitia and tell her why they think their client would be a good fit for us. Letitia then has a better understanding of which editor to direct the information to. I love speaking with publicists on the phone; especially when they are passionate about their clients.

Fashion Designer 101: How to Plan for Success

Fashion Designer

Making a living doing what you love is important. I’ve had the privilege of working in the communications field for over 18 years and I’m passionate about my work. Working in the fashion business, it’s likely you’re living your dream as well. I’ve yet to meet a designer who isn’t passionate about fashion, her designs and her customers. Yet that enthusiasm less often extends to the other, less creative aspects of running a business. Unfortunately, setting up your business properly can be one of the most important ways to set yourself up for success in the long-term.

Consider this: you’re not only a fashion designer, you’re a business owner.

Map Out a Business Plan

Much in the way you sketch your next great creation or draw out your patterns before sewing, set aside some time to map out what your vision is for your company and create a business plan. You can find several templates and examples online to help you get started. By following along with the template, you will be forced to consider questions like – who are your stakeholders? What is the operations plan? Are you planning to work solo or do you need to incorporate? What is your marketing plan, major messaging and key areas of differentiation.  Business plans are often modified as your dreams become reality, but spending time in this planning phase is crucial, for your own sanity and if you ever hope to have an investor take you seriously.

Develop Customer Profiles

Who is your target customer? I can’t count how many times I’ve heard designers say “everyone” because they feel their product is so great! Even saying “women over 25″ is too general. A great way to get specific is to develop customer profiles or personas. Give your 35 year old, college-educated, zumba dancing, Africa-safari going, major metropolitan living, mom of two girls aged 2 and 6 looking for comfortable separates that will help her stand out, a name. Give her a face!  And then design for her.

Being clear on who your target is not only helps line up your image and brand so that it resonates with that target, it allows you to research further into her experience. Host a focus group, invite friends or friends of friends over for tea and have them talk to you about what they are looking for in their closet each morning. In addition, a clear target helps with public relations and securing media coverage. As a quick example, we know that the Nylon skews a bit younger, is edgy and tied to music and underground culture.  W Magazine, on the other hand, attracts a more sophisticated, polished and affluent reader. Perhaps there are aspects of your line that appeal to both, but make sure your pitch is targeted to appeal to the specific vibe of the publication.

Make Budgeting Your New BFF

It’s important to make sure you have enough savings to keep you afloat during the first few months. As a designer, you also need to map out start up costs (and likely get an accountant) and get your books in order for tax time. Consider how much money you need to pay for portions of your design business that you may not always operate yourself. For instance, a sales staff, seamstresses, a PR and marketing budget, bookkeeping, etc.

Commit to Losing (a bit) of Control

As a designer/business owner, you will have a great deal of creative control, after all, it’s your design and your business. Even so, you’ll need to be open to advice and guidance from those who are skilled in areas you struggle with. Allow your brand to evolve in ways you never expected, and be open to opportunities that come your way (just make sure they fit with your overall brand identity!).

From Ball Gowns to Touch Downs

Our firm works with the fashion label Essence Flowers, known for designing gorgeous dresses – from cocktail dresses to ball gowns that appeal to an elite,  high profile crowd, including celebrities and dignitaries. In the last few years, however, the designer began to explore swimwear, which has proven to be a highly lucrative new channel. In 2010, Essence Flowers designed suits for the 2010 Tampa Bay Buccaneer cheerleading calendar, and the the NFL cheerleading team loved her designs so much, they asked her to design their 2010 uniforms. She has since launched a sports division to cater to this new market.

The transition has required a bit of adaptation, but has allowed her to maintain her role designing quality clothing for discerning consumers, while supporting her overall business. If she hadn’t been open to exploring other aspects of her field, she may not have ever come across, or made use of, the opportunity design for cheerleaders. And who knows, the next step may be designing the dresses they wear to fancy social affairs!

Are you looking at your designer skills through a business lens? What advice do you have for fashion designers just starting their businesses?